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Cat Ba Island, one of my favorite places on Earth

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It seems like everyone who visits Halong Bay is completely blown away by the place, and fair enough they should be. Its scenic beauty matches anything on the planet, certainly anything I have seen, and I have been lucky, having traveled for over thirty years and been all over the world. It is a remarkable bay, hundreds of square miles of the prettiest scenery you are ever likely to witness. The limestone islands, and there are nearly 2000 of them, jut precariously out of the water, presenting a different view every time you pass one. However, in the rush for everyone to write about this wonder of nature, one idyllic spot almost gets forgotten. Cat Ba Island is one of my favourite places anywhere in the world.

Halong Bay is of course a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but not as many people know that the Cat Ba Archipelago is as well, in its own right. Cat Ba Island is the largest of the 366 islands that make up this archipelago in the southeast of Halong Bay. The island is used as a major stop off point for many of the cruise boats touring Halong Bay. These luxury tour craft, put in here, in order for their passengers to enjoy an overnight stay on the island. Thus some parts are over populated in busy times. However an extended stay here will reap superb rewards for any traveler.

This is a big island; 13,000 people live here, in six different communes. Add to them the 4,000 who live in floating villages right next to the island and you have quite a busy community. The vast majority of the locals live in Cat Ba Town, but I like to get out and about on the island. The Cat Ba National Park is scenically fantastic. It covers a third of the islands area and is as ecologically diverse a place as it is reasonable to wish for. This area is a UNESCO Man and Biosphere Reserve. Any time spent here is, for me, the best of times.

The National Park is home to some amazing creatures, probably the most famous of which is, the Cat Ba Langur. This golden headed primate is one of the most endangered anywhere in the world. There used to be thousands of them, but by the year 2000, their numbers were down to just 53. Sadly, it was poaching, due to traditional “medicines” that cause their decline. A project was set up to protect them and they have started to fight back. However, even today there are only 68 left in the wild. Seeing one of these creatures ranks as a personal highlight for me.

I can think of nothing better than hiring a local guide and getting out into the park to enjoy all that it has to offer. I simply love being here. Trekking is allowed and groups are appearing in greater numbers. I prefer to get away from the trekking routes and find my own peace and solitude. It is a wonderful place.


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